This month I was a bit stumped for inspiration, but luckily, Hallelujah ... I noticed that a bunch of recent wine samples were all from small producers in boutique regions. So in the end, the article focused on a random selection of great wines from some of the smaller producing areas of NZ’s varied geography and climate regions.
Marlborough and Hawkes bay are admittedly large and consistent wine regions, producing about 70% and 20% respectively by volume, of our fabulous NZ wines. Yet at the same time, we have small output producers located in boutique regions where exceptional wines are made - and rarely exported. Sure, we need the big producers to wave the flag internationally, but meantime we have some fantastic wines in local boutique regions where NZers have the chance to feel a bit special and have the inside knowledge to obtain some very special wines.
Soljans Gisborne Gewürztraminer 2010 $19As well as being renowned for Chardonnay production, the Gisborne plains are also home to some very good aromatic styles, Gewürztraminer in particular. Even at four years old, this is a lovely example and holding up well. Pale gold colour in the glass. Aromas and flavours of pear, apple, lemon squash, spice and lime.
Gladstone Vineyard Pinot Gris 2013 $21The northern Wairarapa Gladstone region is a relatively new wine growing region, with free-draining river terraces and a cool climate and plenty of sunshine. This wine was stainless steel fermented, but then left to age on lees (yeast residue) to add complexity. Aromas of citrus blossom, with flavours of ripe peach, creamy mouth texture and a hint of spice.
Just south of Gladstone, Dry River is an iconic Wairarapa producer. Wilco Lam has recently taken over winemaking duties from Katy ‘Poppy’ Hammond. Have no fear; the wines are in capable hands. This wine is opulent and unctuous medium sweet with flavours of lime squash, Golden Queen peach and poached pear.
Mt Difficulty Roaring Meg Central Otago Pinot Gris 2012 $21
Proof that ‘Central’ isn’t just about Pinot Noir. Pale gold colour, with flavours and aromas of pineapple, citrus, nectarine, grapefruit, lime and a hint of tonic water. Lush off-dry style with a lengthy finish.
Soho Waiheke Island Carter Chardonnay 2013 $31
Auckland’s star wine region, Waiheke continues to prove that the clay soils and warm climate with onshore breezes are suited to many varieties. (Typically the two whites that do well there are Pinot Gris and Chardonnay). On the nose - mineral, citrus, and yeast. On the palate, lively and ripe, with pineapple, lime, nectarine, hazel nutty oak and a crisp finish.
A new Christchurch label that sources fruit from Marlborough and central Otago, Supper Club aims to deliver wines at a good price. This one is a lighter style of Pinot, but still hits the buttons with medium dry tannins, spice and ripe black fruit flavours.
Phil Parker is an Auckland Wine Writer and operates boutique Wine & Food Tours in Auckland