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Auckland, North Island, New Zealand
Wine tour operator, wine writer and lapsed physiotherapist. "Nature abhors a vacuum. I personally hate dusting."


Wednesday, April 16, 2014

Craggy Range’s Epic 2013 Vintage

In 1986 North American billionaire Terry Peabody was tasked by his wife Mary, and daughter Mary-Jeanne to start a winery, after he had made his money in Canada and Australia. With the aid of renowned Kiwi viticulturist Steve Smith, he went on to develop Craggy Range – one of Hawke’s Bay’s premium red producers. Winemaker Matt Stafford gained experience in Marlborough, Australia and California before joining in 2006. 

Last week I attended the launch of Hawkes Bay winery Craggy Range’s ‘Vintage of a Generation.’ There is a lot of excitement in the industry about the wines from the epic 2013 vintage twelve months ago. The combination of lower cropping (which increases fruit quality) combined with a dry and sunny extended ripening period right up to harvest time, allowed growers the rare option of picking when grapes were at optimal ripeness.

The launch was held at the Auckland Observatory, with an impressive introductory video projected onto the Planetarium’s 360 degree overhead hemispherical screen.

Now, to the wines. Interestingly, I had anticipated that the white wines would be big, bold and full of flavour, but they were surprisingly delicate and elegant (admittedly, the riesling and the sauvignon were from Martinborough – a cooler region).  The reds on the other hand were more expressive of a hot, dry Hawkes Bay summer. We had a guided wine tasting of the new white wines, plus barrel samples of the four red wines that are blended into what will be the flagship Craggy Range ‘Sophia’ Bordeaux-style. And finally – a sneak preview of the 2013 Sophia blend (still in barrel).

2013 Te Muna Martinborough Riesling
Floral aromas, with some tropical pineapple and crisp lime on the palate. A crisp mouth-watering finish with lengthy lemon squash flavours.

2013 Te Muna Martinborough Sauvignon Blanc
Sweet ripe apricot and gooseberry aromas, with similar flavours plus guava and blackcurrant. Medium acidity makes this a very approachable sauvignon blanc.

2013 Kidnappers Vineyard Chardonnay
Floral aromas with a palate of subtle citrus with hints of herbal and mineral flavours.

2013 Gimblett Gravels Chardonnay
Toasty aromas with a whiff of lemon blossom.  In the mouth – soft acids, stone fruit, quinine and a lengthy finish.

Barrel Samples:
2013 ‘Sophia’ Gimblett Gravels Merlot
Dusty aromas with pot pourri and spice.  On the palate, ripe black berry fruit and chocolate with a hint of smoke and soft tannins.

2013 ‘Sophia’ Gimblett Gravels Cabernet Sauvignon
Again a hint of dust, plus black stone fruits, black currant and plum, with a dry finish.

2013 ‘Sophia’ Gimblett Gravels Petit Verdot
Petit Verdot is a Bordeaux red grape which only ripens in a very good year and normally is blended with other varieties.  Smoky aromas, with sweet fruit and high acidity.

And finally …tad-dah!
2013 Gimblett Gravels ‘Sophia’ blend
This will be a fabulous wine, even in its extreme youth it has the hallmarks of greatness. Aromas of spicy fruit cake and ripe black berry fruit.  Flavours of black fruit, almond, red plums and a hint of chocolate.  Lengthy dry finish with youthful tannins.
Phil Parker is a wine writer and operates Fine Wine & Food Tours in Auckland 

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