French Fab Four

Here we go with a selection of French wines, reasonably priced and unpretentious, yet capturing the essence of their Gallic heritage. Interestingly, only one of these is sealed with a traditional cork (the Fleurie). The Bourillon Vouvray has one of those demonic plastic corks that are nigh well impossible to extract without incurring a hernia, whereas the other two are sensibly sealed with screw caps. French wines are making a comeback after many years of overinflated prices and losing ground to producers from not only Spain and Italy but also South America, New Zealand and Australia. These four are highly recommended as good value examples of French regional wines.

Bourillon Dorléans Vouvray (Chenin Blanc) Loire France 2012 Demi-sec $NZ 30.00
From east of the Loire region, of my favourite obscure white varieties, Vouvray always delivers a complex, mouth-filling experience. This is a demi-sec i.e. off-dry to medium sweet style that smells like clover honey and pineapple juice with a whiff of funky yeast. On the palate it’s a cocktail of flavours – from fresh cut pineapple, to toffee, ginger, mango and a hint of fennel. The finish isn’t sweet, but lingering and slightly mineral. A good match with a veal casserole.
Available: Glengarry

Gisselbrecht Pinot Gris Alsace 2015 $NZ 20.00
From the home of ‘aromatic wines’ in Alsace on the French/German border.
Smells like warm red apple skin on a sunny day, with a hint of honey and citrus blossom. It is a rich and fruity style leaning more towards sweet than off-dry. Lovely flavours of clear apple juice, and pear & apple cake, and a little muskiness on the lengthy finish. Would match well with creamy pasta or chicken dishes.
Available: Glengarry

Muré Gewürztraminer Alsace 2013  $NZ 35.50

Another classic wine variety from northern France, this is a voluptuous seductive blonde, with aromas of honey, spice and beeswax. A lovely complex palate of preserved ginger, lychee and a dash of florals – but not the usual rosewater flavours. It has a hint of sweetness but finishes dry and tangy. It reminds me very much of the Dry River Gewürztraminer. Typically matches well with pork.
Available: Herne Bay Cellars.

Albert Ponnelle Fleurie Gamay Beaujolais 2013  $NZ 47.50

From the Beaujolais region, this is very typically French – more about savoury and spice than fruit yet quite generous and complex. Aromas of earth, smoke, sour cherry and gamey meats open up in the mouth with an initial hit of acidity and a bit of astringency. Then it’s all savoury spice, soy sauce and black cherry and a fruity ripe mid palate. The finish is savoury and dry. Nicely matched with a winter beef dish.
Available: contact Dhall & Nash wines info@dnfinewine.com

Phil runs Fine Wine & Food Tours in Auckland NZ