Family Business
This month, I’m featuring
wines from two iconic producers – Sir George Fistonich, and Pegasus Bay’s
Donaldson Family.
Sir George has been in the industry since 1961 when he planted his first
vineyard in Mangere at the tender age of 21 and started making wine under the
Villa Maria label, which went on to become an international brand. He was one
of many pioneering Croatian Auckland wine producers. Since 2021, NZ company
Indevin Wines has taken over the Villa Maria brand, and Sir George has launched
Fistonich Family Vineyards. His new venture, based in the former Esk Valley
winery in Hawkes Bay, has been renamed the Čuvar Winery. Čuvar
(pronounced chu-var), is translates in Croatian as guardian. This year, two new
brands – Obliix and Forest Flower Collection have been added to the stable.
Pegasus Bay is owned by the
extensive Donaldson family, and is based in Waipara, North Canterbury. Ivan
Donaldson, a professor of neurology, and his wife Christine started a hobby
vineyard in the early 1970s. By the mid-1980s Ivan and Chris decided there was
a future for wine making in Canterbury and went on to establish Pegasus Bay
with the help of their four sons, who have all ended up working in key roles
within the business. Their Pegasus Bay Pinot Noir is renowned as one of
Canterbury’s greatest wines.
Pegasus Bay Aged Release Riesling Waipara Valley 2014 $45
A gorgeous aged and mellow riesling from ten years ago. Aromas of beeswax
and honey. Green gold in the glass. Flavours of grapefruit marmalade, makrut
lime, jasmine, and clover honey. Soft and lengthy off-dry finish.
Čuvar Guardian
Ballochdale Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2023 $33.99
Delicate, elegant, and subtle
flavours of freshly picked blackcurrant with a nudge of canned pink guava, with
a medium acid finish.
Čuvar Guardian Chardonnay
Hawkes Bay 2022 375ml half bottle. $14.99
Very light, subtle and bone dry
almost in a Chablis style with minimal oak influence. Hints of
mandarin citrus, and a final yeasty tangy dry finish. 12.5% ABV.
Oblix
Gimblett Gravels Chardonnay Hawkes Bay 2021 $23.99
Creamy and complex, with nougat,
nectarine, and fresh cut pineapple. A hint of spicy oak and dried apricot, with
a lengthy finish. Yum.
Čuvar Guardian Rivermere
Vineyard Chardonnay Hawkes Bay 2021 $43.99
Very different from the Oblix as
above. Tightly focused on minerality, and with a hint of reductive struck
match on the nose. Toasty oak, lime citrus and peach 13.5% ABV
Oblix Rosé 2023 375ml $13.99
Dry and elegant. Easy drinking at
12.5% ABV. Flavours of red summer berry fruits, plum jam and a crisp finish.
Čuvar Guardian Cornerstone
Vineyard Hawke’s Bay Rosé 2023 $33.99
Delightfully soft and approachable
just nudging off-dry. 12.7% ABV Fab as an aperitif or with lighter vegan
or seafood cuisines. 100% cabernet franc. Hints of marshmallow, clear apple
juice, cranberry and raspberry.
Pegasus Bay Aged Release Pinot Noir Waipara Valley 2014 $70
Stunningly good wine. At ten years old, this wine is in its prime, leaning
to the umami spectrum. Predominantly savoury, smoky flavours of grilled
mushroom, black olive and vegemite. Then a segue into fruitcake, plum and black
cherry. Fine grained tannins and lengthy finish.
Čuvar Iris Malbec Merlot Hawkes Bay 2022 $29.99
Full bodied, ripe, young, and generous at 13% ABV. Flavours of plum,
cassis, dark chocolate, leather. Grippy medium tannins signal that this one
could be popped away for 5 plus years.
