By Jupiter! Sangiovese grown in NZ.

When you think of Chianti, often the image springs to mind - of a spherical bottle with a long-neck, wrapped in raffia. Perhaps with a candle jammed down its throat and perched on red checked tablecloths in an Italian-themed restaurant.

That was a gimmicky approach which worked as a branding exercise for the Italian wine industry to a degree, but because of some dodgy rough reds, it didn’t do a whole lot for Chianti’s reputation.

But now, things have changed somewhat, and Sangiovese (Italian for ‘blood of Jupiter’) is now a sought after wine variety. In Tuscany, Chianti is largely made from Sangiovese but other varieties such as Cabernet and the Italian grape Canaiolo are added to the mix.

The most famous Chianti - Brunello di Montalcino is 100% Sangiovese.

Believe it or not, there is some very good New Zealand Sangiovese available in addition to the odd import from Northern Italy.

Probably our most successful producer is Matakana’s Heron’s Flight, a winery established in 1988 by ex-Philadelphian David Hoskins and his NZ partner Mary Evans. Initially the vines planted were Chardonnay and Merlot, but in 1994 Sangiovese Grosso was trialled. Now, all vines other than Sangiovese have been pulled out. And David has just started experimenting with another red Italian variety, Dolcetto which comes from the Piedmonte region.

Heron’s Flight’s Sangiovese (about $NZ50) is full bodied, and soft with fruit flavours of plums and red berries, with mild tannins and an earthy spicy quality. Fantastic wine, only available from the winery, or you can buy it by the glass to accompany superb Heron’s Flight café lunch fare.

Herons Flight 49 Sharp Rd., Matakana ph: 09 422 7915

Other NZ producers – Hawkes Bay’s Matariki, and Borthwick estate from Wairarapa.

Good value import: Frescobaldi Castiglioni Chianti 2002 (about $16 at Foodtown). Medium bodied, ripe and spicy with firm tannins

Phil Parker operates Auckland Fine Wine Tours and is a wine writer.