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Auckland, North Island, New Zealand
Wine tour operator, wine writer and lapsed physiotherapist. "Nature abhors a vacuum. I personally hate dusting."

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Thursday, November 20, 2014

NZ Wine & Cheese - Marriage Made In Foodie Heaven

I remember as a student in the 1970s, attending a ‘wine and cheese’ function held by Auckland University students. I consisted of scruffy long-haired people drinking bad red wine accompanied by bits of Colby on toothpicks.
Happily, NZ has come a long way since then with both its cheese production and wine quality. And surely, two of our major industries – dairy and wine, should complement each other. I’m not a major foodie, but I do know a few and have picked a bit of knowledge along the way. These cheese matches are just a suggestion. As for most food and wine matching, it’s all about personal preference and experimentation.

Yealands PGR Awatere Aromatic Blend 2014 $NZ 15.99
Something quite different from Yealands – a blend of three grape varieties: 49% Pinot Gris, 32% Riesling, 19% Gewürztraminer.
Aromas of pear and red apple skin, with flavours of ripe pears and citrus fruits, with a tangy dry finish.
Cheese match – Puhoi Feta

Ngatarawa Stables Pinot Gris Hawkes Bay Pinot Gris 2014 $NZ 15.00
A medium-bodied style stone fruit and ripe pear aromas. Nashi pear and white peach flavours and a clean crisp finish.
Cheese match – Kapiti Triple Cream Brie

Matawhero  Gisborne Gewürztraminer 2014 $15.00
On the nose, mineral, spice, tonic water and rosewater. On the palate, dry and crisp, with spicy clove, lychee fruit, lime and quinine.
Cheese match – Mainland Vintage Cheddar

Heron’s Flight Matakana Dolcetto Rosé 2014 $24.00
Vivid raspberry juice pink colour, on the nose a hint of strawberries and minerality.  In the mouth, quite surprisingly rich with spice and red fruit flavours a hint of sweetness and a dry finish.
Cheese match – Whitestone Creamy Havarti

Catalina Sounds Marlborough Pinot Noir 2013 $NZ 27.00
Aromas of toast, black berry fruit and spice. Silky ripe palate with flavours of red berry fruits and black cherry.
Cheese match -
Kapiti Kahikatea Camembert

Mountford Estate Pinot Noir 2009  $NZ 67.00 (approx)
Starts off on the nose with savoury and fruitcake aromas and hint of tawny port. One sip and I’m seduced - gorgeously soft and integrated flavours of fruit cake, Maraschino cherry, sweet liquorice and mocha.
Cheese match – Bouton d’Or Camembert


Fernado De Castilla Pedro Ximinez Sherry 750 ml $NZ 34.00
Pedro Ximinex (PX for short) is a famous Spanish grape variety from which the eponymous rich, sweet sherry is vinted. Greeny brown in the glass, it smells a bit like molasses. In the mouth, unctuous and intensely sweet with muscatel raisin and golden syrup flavours. Mmmmm.
Cheese match – Barry’s Bay Peninsula Blue

Pegasus Bay Finale Waipara Noble Semillon 2011 (barrel matured)
$NZ 40.00
Aromas of dried apricots, honey and marzipan. Mouth filling, sweet and
Rich, it has flavours of honey and marmalade with a hint of acid to balance the sugars.
Cheese match – Puhoi 7 Year Old Cheddar


Special thanks to Tracey Larsen from Matua Valley cellar door for cheese matching advice.

Tuesday, October 21, 2014

Got A Whole Lotta Wine

As per my last column – there have been many opportunities to taste new wine releases as we head toward Auckland’s summer.  I still have a heap awaiting review but here we go with the latest.  Cheers!

Villa Maria Pinot Gris Private Bin Light 2014 $15
I was a bit cynical about low alcohol wines – but this is the real deal. At only 9% alcohol, this tastes like a full bodied, crisp and fruity Pinot Gris. It has enough complexity and balance to stand up against a regular 12-14% alcohol wine.

Craggy Range Te Muna Martinborough Pinot Gris 2014 $27
Aromas of orange blossom and minerality. This is an elegant and lean style of Pinot Gris with flavours of lime, fennel, white peach, and fresh pineapple and a crisp finish.

Gladstone 12,000 Central Otago Miles Pinot Gris 2014 $21
Citrus blossom and poached pear aromas. Time spent on yeast residue had added a layer of creaminess to the stone fruit and Nashi pear flavours.

Vidal Marlborough Riesling 2014 $18
Citrus and floral aromas. On the palate, an elegant and delicate, just off-dry wine with lime, ripe pear flavours and a crisp clean finish at only 11% alcohol.

Waimea Classic Nelson Riesling 2014 $20
Aromas of lemon/lime and green apple, but opens up on the palate with ripe honeysuckle, lemon squash, and tropical fruit.  Yet with a crisp clean finish.

Dry River Martinborough Viognier 2012 $45
Nectarine and rhubarb aromas, with elegant, complex flavours of apricot, white peach and lemon squash with hint of sweetness. Crisp, dry and lengthy palate.

Pegasus Bay Waipara Gewürztraminer 2012  $29
Yellow gold colour, with aromas of honey and ripe nectarines. This wine was aged in old oak barrels.  Flavours of spice, honey, grapefruit marmalade and lychee fruit in an unctuous and lush style.

Vidal Anthony Joseph Hawkes Bay Chardonnay 2013 $16
Citrus and mineral aromas. Palate of toasted almond, grapefruit, ripe pear and quince – with a lengthy aftertaste.

Vidal Reserve Marlborough Pinot Noir 2013 $25
Floral potpourri aromas, with ripe black fruit.  In the mouth – ripe fruit flavours, with Black Doris plum and savoury smooth finish.

Heron’s Flight Matakana Sangiovese 2012
Dark berry fruit, floral and subtle spice aromas.  Dark cherry/berry and earthy fruit cake flavours with a firm tannic finish. One to cellar for a few more years.

Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé NV $140
Billecart is a family run winery, making Champagne in Epernay since 1818. Their Rosé is the flagship wine, made with about 50% Chardonnay, plus around 1/3 Pinot Noir and a dash of Pinot Meunier. Aromas of red berries, brioche and mineral. A fine beaded Champagne with subtle cherry and spiced fruit and crisp mineral finish.

Billecart-Salmon Brut Réserve NV $60 - $99
Citrus flower and red berry fruit aromas. Crisp mineral acidity with flavours of pear, apple, a hint of toast, and stone fruit.
Read Phil’s Blog at nzwineblogger.blogspot.co.nz


Phil Parker is a wine writer and operates Fine Wine & Food Tours in Auckland 


lots of new wines from NZ

For a wine writer, spring is the best time of year. Wines that have been held back for release are suddenly flooding the market in a vinous tsunami of diversity – from softly aged reds that have been quietly snoozing in seasoned oak barrels for a number years, to fruity and fresh young things bursting with flavour, from the last vintage.

This is one of those times when I don’t mind the courier knocking on the door at 7.15 am to deliver mystery packages – because mostly they contain what we in the wine scribe fraternity describe as ‘trade samples.’
And thus, in the name of ongoing professional development, these wines must be sampled.

NZ has been blessed by two fantastic vintages – 2013 and 2014.
The former, more about quality yet with less quantity.  And the latter, a rare ‘beautiful collision’ of both quality and quantity.  We can be justly proud of our wines. As locals, we have access to some amazing wines, many of which are not exported. As a nod to the fine reds from Australia, I have also included a great Shiraz.


Mudhouse Marlborough Pinot Gris 2014 $20.00
Pale gold colour. Aromas of lemon squash lime juice. Medium sweet and lush with flavours of spice, quince and poached pear.  Time ageing in oak barrels has added a layer of complexity and softer flavours.

Mountford Waipara Valley Pinot Gris 2011 $29.00
Hailing from Waipara, this is a lush and unctuous late harvest style sweet wine in line with the Vendange Tardive style from northern France’s Alsace region. A mouthful of spiced quince, pear, honey and golden queen peach. 

Gladstone Vineyard Sophie’s Choice Wairarapa (Oak Aged) Sauvignon Blanc 2012 $35.00
A great Savvie for those who are put off by the Marlborough acidity.  This one has spent 10 months in French barrels. Classic gooseberry and passionfruit flavours with a hint of toasty hazel nut, yet with a crisp finish.

West Brook Barrique Marlborough Chardonnay 2013 $24.00
Formerly, a blend of Auckland and Marlborough fruit, this time it’s 100% Marlborough fruit. A rich and rewarding wine with ripe flavours of canned peach, grapefruit and mandarin, a crisp citrus finish and a hint of toasty oak.

Main Divide Te Hau Reserve Waipara Pinot Noir 2012 $33.00
Garnet red colour with aromas of spice, potpourri, toasted almonds, and cigar box. Ripe black cherry/berry flavours, with medium soft tannins and a lengthy, tarry dry finish.
Waimea Nelson Pinot Noir 2013 $25.00
Garnet red and clear, this is a classic Burgundy style Pinot, with savoury smoky aromas and a complex palate of cherries, dark chocolate and spices, with soft tannins.  If I had the patience, I would put this away for 4 more years
Gillman Matakana 2008 $70.00
Retired medical specialist, John Gillman and his son Toby explored winemaking way back in the mid-1980s, working at local Providence vineyard. Toby further explored winemaking in Bordeaux in 1997, and on his return the family invested in establishing their own vineyard in Matakana.
This wine is in the classic NZ Bordeaux style and vinted from Cab Franc, Merlot and Malbec. Typical black spiced berry fruit, black currant and soft leathery savoury flavours. At six years in the bottle, this is drinking extremely well now, but will cellar for at least two to three years.

Brown Brothers Patricia Shiraz 2009  $55.00
Dark opaque garnet/purple colour, with aromas of blackberry and black currant, marshmallow, and a hint of spice. Rich, ripe and generous, this is a big Aussie wine, yet with seductively sweet and ripe dark berry fruits which open up into spicy and soft tannins with a silky yet lengthy finish. 

Thursday, October 16, 2014

Planet Wine South African Wines NZ

Today I was hosted by Martin Cahnbley of Planet Wine NZ to a range of very impressive South African wines.
For most NZers, South African wines are a rarity - and when we do find them, they tend to be low-end cheap supermarket, bargain bin, very *ahem* forgettable wines.
However in the past, I have been exposed to some fantastic wines from the Nederburg label.
And today was another treat.

Here we go. First up a bunch of Chenin Blancs.

BADENHORST Secateurs Swartland Chenin Blanc 2013 $NZ25.60
Predominantly Chenin, but a 'sprinkling' of Palomino. Aromas of crisp apple, honey and fresh pineapple.  Palate of crisp apple, with dry pineapple/tropical flavours and a hint of tonic water and a clean medium acidity finish.

RAATS Family Chenin Blanc Stellenbosch 2009 $NZ 43.20
Scoring highly with Wine Advocate and Wine Spectator, this is a lean dry and herbal style.  Aromas of honey and minerality. Palate of tonic water, dry, mineral flavours and oak influence from 20% barrel time.

KEN FORRESTER Reserve Chenin Blanc Stellenbosch 2013 $NZ 28.80
Aromas of toffee and honeyed fruits.  Palate of apricot, honey and creamy yeast.

FORRESTER MEINART  FMC Chenin Blanc Stellenbosch 2012  $NZ 96.00
Classy Chenin, with a nose of ripe pear, and vanilla oak.  Flavours of ripe pineapple and honey with dried apricot and a soft finish.

Now, to the reds...

NEWTON JOHNSON Pinot Noir Walker Bay 2010 $NZ 64.00
Clear garnet read. Aromas of smoke, savoury meats and cherry. Palate of cherry spice, big alcohol and leather, gamey flavours.

RAATS Dolomite Cabernet Franc Stellenbosch 2012 $NZ 32.00
Opaque dark garnet red colour. Dusty aromas, with oak, spice and leather.  Flavours of chocolate, black cherry, spice and blackcurrant with a big alcohol whoomph and dry finish.

MEERLUST RED Stellenbosch Somerset West 2011 $NZ 32.00 Another big wine - Merlot domonant Bordeaux style blend. . Aromas of tar, liquorice, spice and dust. Palate of ripe blackcurrant, spice liquorice and a lengthy palate.

MORGENSTER Laurens River Valley 2005 $NZ 44.80
Another big red at 14.5% alcohol. Merlot dominant blend. Smoky aromas, with a hint of floral potpourri. Ripe and sweet palate with tar, liquorice, BBQ meats, spice and black cherry.  Long finish.

KANONKOP Paul Sauer Stellenbosch 2008 $NZ 57.60
Mineral clay aromas with spice and tar. Cabernet 69% with  Cab Franc 22% and Merlot 9%
Medium soft tannins with floral, spice, blackberry and cassis flavours.

KANONKOP Estate Pinotage Stellenbosch 2012 $NZ 54.40
Dark and opaque with aromas of plum, spice and smoky tar. Sweet and ripe black fruit flavours of boysenberry and black currant.

KANONKOP Kadette Pinotage Stellenbosch 2013 $NZ 25.60
Dense garnet red.  Aromas of spice and black berry fruits and pepper. Sweet and ripe, with blackberry, cassis and oaky tannins.  Great value

KAAPZICHT Pinotage Stellenbosch  2011 $NZ 30.40
Dark and opaque. Aromas of tar, liquorice and spice. Ripe and soft fruit flavours of plum and cassis with soft tannins.  Another bargain.

ADI BAADENHORST Family Red Swartland  2010 $NZ 51.20
Syrah dominant, with Grenache, Cinsault and Tinta Barocca (thick skinned grape normally used for making port).  Opaque and crimson. Aromas of spice, smoke and leather.  On the palate, a big tannic hit, with black fruit. Complex and dry - maybe needs a bit more time.

LUDDITE Shiraz Botriver 2006  $NZ 64.00
Fruity, spicy aromas of black fruit and oak. Ripe and jammy in the big Australian Shiraz style with intense black currant and cassis.

BOEKENHOUTSKLOOF The Wolftrap  Red 2013 $ NZ20.80
Syrah 66% Mourvedre 32% Viognier 2%
Medium opaque.  Aromas of spice and cherry.  In the mouth - sweet, ripe and spicy. Good value.

Finally..

KLEIN CONSTANTIA  Muscat de Frontignan Vin de Constance. $NZ 99.20
South Africa's most renowned dessert wine. Rich golden honey colour, with aromas of toffee, honey and beeswax. Intense and complex sweet palate of sultanas, caramel, toffee and honey with a clean acid balanced finish

AVAILABILITY:
Auckland : The Wine Barrel, Wine Circle, Wine Direct, Blanc, Accent on Wine, Wine & More,'Liquorland Northcross
Wellington: Wineseeker, Region Wines, Moore Wilson Centre City
Christchurch: Decant, Vino Fino

Phil runs wine tours in Auckland region


Thursday, September 25, 2014

Spring wine releases in NZ

With signs of seasonal change, for example - waggly-tailed fluffy white lambs in the rural west, magnolia blooms, daffodils, torrential rain, and intoxicatingly fragrant erlicheer flowers, it does appear that … finally Auckland is gettin’ Springy With It. (By the way – I always thought that they were called ‘early cheer’ as in – early, cheerful spring flowers).
So much for my botanical nominative incompetence.

Anyway – this is also, fortuitously, the time when wineries release their new wines on to the market and send out trade samples to wine writers for appraisal. I drink … therefore I am one.  Here’s a recent selection.

Mudhouse Pinot Gris 2014 $NZ 20.00
Pale gold colour. Aromas of lemon squash lime juice. Medium sweet and lush with flavours of spice, quince and poached pear.  Time ageing in oak barrels has added a layer of complexity and softer flavours.

Mountford Pinot Gris 2011 $NZ 29.00
Hailing from Waipara, this is a lush and unctuous late harvest style sweet wine in line with the Vendange Tardive style from northern France’s Alsace region. A mouthful of spiced quince, pear, honey and golden queen peach.  

Gladstone Vineyard Sophie’s Choice (Oak Aged) Sauvignon Blanc 2012 $NZ 35.00
A great Savvie for those who are put off by the Marlborough acidity.  This one has spent 10 months in French barrels. Classic gooseberry and passionfruit flavours with a hint of toasty hazel nut, yet with a crisp finish.

Main Divide Merlot/Cabernet 2011 $NZ 20.00
2011 wasn’t the best of vintages – with a cooler temperatures and a lot of rain late in the season. Yet, this is a good value Merlot dominant blend – with cherry/berry fruit flavours, spicy characters and medium tannins

Phil runs Fine Wine & Food Tours in Auckland

Thursday, August 21, 2014

Bogle Wines from California


Every now and again, I get a pack of trade samples to review that really impresses me. Not that often, though. Mostly it’s a mixed blessing – maybe 3 out of 5 wines that stand out of the pack, but it is rare to get a consistent line-up of truly outstanding wines.
But recently I received some samples from local Ponsonby-based importers, Dhall & Nash.
This time it was wines from a large Californian family winery – Bogle wines. They source fruit from their own vineyards and contract growers, in and around California, with around 25 vineyards in total. The Bogle family has been farming in California’s Sacramento Delta for six generations. Three siblings, Warren, Jody and Ryan are all involved in management and administration, while a team of wine makers and viticulturalists get on with the production end of the operation. I couldn’t estimate what their production is but I’d imagine they are a significant middle sized producer in the vast Californian wine scene.
I must admit that the very few Californian wines I have tasted in the past were like Jim Carrey on methamphetamines – lapel-grabbing, ‘look-at-me’, over the top jammy alcoholic Zinfandels and sweet, over-oaked Chardonnay, or gaggingly sugary ‘White Zinfandel’ rosés.

So much for my prejudices…

Bogle Chardonnay 2012 $NZ 30
A very classy and elegant Chardonnay that reminds me very much of Kumeu River’s Mate’s Vineyard Chardonnay.  Green gold in colour, with aromas of pineapple, minerality and hint of herbs. In the mouth - stone fruit and spice, toast, creamy yeast influence and a crisp mineral finish.

Bogle Chenin Blanc $NZ 30
Pale gold. Aromas of tropical fruits, nougat and a hint of herbs. In the mouth – lush and ripe with peach, nougat, quinine.  Mouth-filling and unctuous with a soft but lengthy finish. Very much in the style of France’s Vouvray Demi-Sec.

Bogle Petite Sirah 2012 $NZ 30
Upon research (looking up a bunch of wine books from my library and asking Mr. Google) there is a bit of debate about what grape variety Petite Sirah exactly is. One school of thought says it’s a French variety, Durif.  Another says it’s a hybrid of Syrah and obscure grape called Peloursin (which may be Durif anyway). Another says it’s the same as Syrah. Whatever …
This is a knock-out red if you love silky tannins and ripe spicy dark fruit characters as I do. Deep opaque garnet colour, a wee bit of cigar box aroma with a hint of spice on the nose.  Spicy and integrated ripe black cherry and berry flavours.

Bogle Merlot 2012 $NZ 30Deep garnet red, almost opaque. Aromas of spice, beetroot, black berry. Palate of spicy, ripe black fruit, with earthy undertones and a lengthy dry finish.

Bogle OId Vine Zinfandel 2012 $NZ 30
Garnet red colour with aromas of black berry fruits and a lovely floral hint of pot pourri. The palate is slightly rustic and mellow with soft tannins, and flavours of spice, black berry fruit, liquorice, cassis, and muscatel and toasty oak. Lengthy finish.

Available from Caro's, Farro Fresh, Fine Wine Delivery Company
Restaurants: Moochowchow, Blue Breeze Inn, Clooney, Cassia

Phil runs the gosh diddly darn doodly best wine tours in Auckland NZ

Monday, July 21, 2014

Marlborough Wine Region - a winter snapshot


In 1976, our first commercial Sauvignon Blanc vineyards were planted by Montana (now known as Brancott) – and the rest is history.  Marlborough is NZ’s star wine region, with over 75% of the country’s grape harvest and around 23,200 hectares in vines. High sunshine hours and cool night temperatures, combined with old stony alluvial soils produce not only our internationally successful zingy Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, but also very good Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir and traditional method sparkling wines.  
Today if you fly in to Marlborough to land at Blenheim airport you will see a patchwork of vineyards extending right up to the runway and further across the broad alluvial Wairau Plains.
During the School Hols, we flew down to Blenheim to catch up with family, but of course – somehow (gosh – how did that happen?) managed to visit a few wineries.

Rock Ferry Wines
80 Hammerichs Road
Rapaura
Open 7 days a week 10.00 am – 4.30 pm
A small family winery, Rock Ferry is operated by Tom Hutchison and his wife and co-owner Fiona Harvey. Tom is a former Wellingtonian who followed his love of wine to explore Europe’s wine regions and ended up studying viticulture in the USA. On his return he started his own vineyards in Marlborough, and in 2005 they launched the Rock Ferry label. All vineyards are certified organic. And they have a diverse range of grape varieties including Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Grüner Veltliner, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Tempranillo and Nebbiolo.
Notable Wines Pinot Blanc $29, Chardonnay $35, Pinot Noir $45
Food – Café. Small, friendly and cosy, the café has a relaxed feel, with a good range of organic and largely gluten-free local produce on the menu. Reasonably priced and generous servings at about $25

Cloudy Bay Vineyards
Jacksons Road
Blenheim
Open 7 Days 10.00 am – 4.00 p.m.
Probably our most famous Sauvignon Blanc label in the key markets of US, UK, Australia and Japan, and largely responsible for the worldwide awareness of Marlborough as a New Zealand wine region - now part of the international wine portfolio of Luis Vuitton Moët Hennessy. In addition to Sauvignon Blanc, they also produce a super-premium $49 sparkler – Pelorus.  Friendly staff and wide list of wines on offer to sample.  The building is suitably handsome in unpainted concrete, with a welcoming Cellar door which has wide polished wooden counters.
Notable wines – As above, Pelorus Traditional Method both vintage and non-vintage.  Also Chardonnay $40, Gewürztraminer $30, standard label Sauvignon Blanc $30, and Te Koko (oak aged) Sauvignon Blanc $58, Pinot Noir $45.
Food – Jacks’ Raw Bar Open summer December 1st to end of April. Freshly shucked oysters, sashimi and other raw delights such as venison Carpaccio, salmon sashimi and gazpacho.


Giesen Wines 
26 Rapaura Rd
Renwick
Ph: 03 572 8500  Web:  www.
giesen.co.nz
Email: cellardoor@giesen.co.nz
Open 7 Days 10.00 am – 4.30 pm
The three Giesen brothers from Germany – Alex, Theo and Marcel came all the way to New Zealand and initially planted grapes in Canterbury in 1981, establishing a company that would become a major exporter and significant player in NZ’s wine scene. Yet … it all could have gone differently. But for Australia’s heat and snakes, the Giesen brothers could well have settled there. (After suffering in 40 degree temperatures and an incident involving a snake in a swimming pool, they decided that NZ was the better option).
Notable Wines – Marlborough Riesling $19, ‘August’ Barrel Fermented Sauvignon Blanc $40, Pinot Noir $22,
Food – selection of platters available at the Cellar Door, with a cosy eating area adjacent.



Phil Parker is a wine writer and operates the Very Best Fine Wine & Food Tours in Auckland, if not the entire Planet