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Auckland, North Island, New Zealand
Wine tour operator, wine writer and lapsed physiotherapist. "Nature abhors a vacuum. I personally hate dusting."


Thursday, August 21, 2014

Bogle Wines from California

Every now and again, I get a pack of trade samples to review that really impresses me. Not that often, though. Mostly it’s a mixed blessing – maybe 3 out of 5 wines that stand out of the pack, but it is rare to get a consistent line-up of truly outstanding wines.
But recently I received some samples from local Ponsonby-based importers, Dhall & Nash.
This time it was wines from a large Californian family winery – Bogle wines. They source fruit from their own vineyards and contract growers, in and around California, with around 25 vineyards in total. The Bogle family has been farming in California’s Sacramento Delta for six generations. Three siblings, Warren, Jody and Ryan are all involved in management and administration, while a team of wine makers and viticulturalists get on with the production end of the operation. I couldn’t estimate what their production is but I’d imagine they are a significant middle sized producer in the vast Californian wine scene.
I must admit that the very few Californian wines I have tasted in the past were like Jim Carrey on methamphetamines – lapel-grabbing, ‘look-at-me’, over the top jammy alcoholic Zinfandels and sweet, over-oaked Chardonnay, or gaggingly sugary ‘White Zinfandel’ ros├ęs.

So much for my prejudices…

Bogle Chardonnay 2012 $NZ 30
A very classy and elegant Chardonnay that reminds me very much of Kumeu River’s Mate’s Vineyard Chardonnay.  Green gold in colour, with aromas of pineapple, minerality and hint of herbs. In the mouth - stone fruit and spice, toast, creamy yeast influence and a crisp mineral finish.

Bogle Chenin Blanc $NZ 30
Pale gold. Aromas of tropical fruits, nougat and a hint of herbs. In the mouth – lush and ripe with peach, nougat, quinine.  Mouth-filling and unctuous with a soft but lengthy finish. Very much in the style of France’s Vouvray Demi-Sec.

Bogle Petite Sirah 2012 $NZ 30
Upon research (looking up a bunch of wine books from my library and asking Mr. Google) there is a bit of debate about what grape variety Petite Sirah exactly is. One school of thought says it’s a French variety, Durif.  Another says it’s a hybrid of Syrah and obscure grape called Peloursin (which may be Durif anyway). Another says it’s the same as Syrah. Whatever …
This is a knock-out red if you love silky tannins and ripe spicy dark fruit characters as I do. Deep opaque garnet colour, a wee bit of cigar box aroma with a hint of spice on the nose.  Spicy and integrated ripe black cherry and berry flavours.

Bogle Merlot 2012 $NZ 30Deep garnet red, almost opaque. Aromas of spice, beetroot, black berry. Palate of spicy, ripe black fruit, with earthy undertones and a lengthy dry finish.

Bogle OId Vine Zinfandel 2012 $NZ 30
Garnet red colour with aromas of black berry fruits and a lovely floral hint of pot pourri. The palate is slightly rustic and mellow with soft tannins, and flavours of spice, black berry fruit, liquorice, cassis, and muscatel and toasty oak. Lengthy finish.

Available from Caro's, Farro Fresh, Fine Wine Delivery Company
Restaurants: Moochowchow, Blue Breeze Inn, Clooney, Cassia

Phil runs the gosh diddly darn doodly best wine tours in Auckland NZ