Very recently I sampled two wines that essentially were true
to the label - a Chardonnay and a Gewürztraminer. Both
undoubtedly contained (by law) at least 85% wine fermented from the stated
varietal. So far, so good. However these wines were both totally out of
balance.
Someone not very experienced with wines may have bought them as an experiment and been put off ever buying a Chard or Gewürz again.
Wine judges, will tell you that an award-winning wine is one
that is in harmony with itself. Factors
in the mix are qualities such as: fruit and other flavours, acidity, residual
sugar, minerality, oak ageing, maturity, youth, tannin, length of palate, alcoholic
strength, intensity and complexity.
The Chardonnay was a Hawkes Bay 2012 from a medium sized producer
and cost $NZD 22.00 As a youngster you
can’t expect much maturity, so it was pale gold in colour. On the nose – not much. Crisp apple, citrus, hardly any oak. In the mouth – acidic, wimpy and light. Dominated by grapefruit flavours and very
little discernible oak influence. Short
finish – all gone from the palate in 5 seconds.
The Gewürztraminer was from Marlborough and a 2012 at $NZD
24.00. One the nose – floral overload of
roses and geranium leaf. In the mouth –
like drinking perfume and totally dominated by the rosewater flavours. Otherwise, no balancing acid or residual sugar,
with a watery light mouth feel.
In both cases, the winemakers got it wrong. These are medium to highly priced wines,
widely available in supermarkets, and the average wine punter has been let down.
As always, wine buying is a gamble if you can’t try before you buy.
As always, wine buying is a gamble if you can’t try before you buy.
Phil runs the best Auckland wine & food tours for sure.
